Sergiev Posad: Center of Russian Orthodoxy

Itinerary

9am - Meeting with the guide and driver at the hotel. Departure to Sergiev Posad.

10:45am - Arrival. 3 hour excursion. You will see Holy Uspensky gates, Holy Trinity Cathedral, Assumption Cathedral, Sergius Well Chapel, Towers, Refectory, Church of the St. Micah, Sacristy, Church of the Holy Spirit, Trinity Sergius Monastery, Old Russian Applied Art Museum, Chertogi Palace, Kelarskiye Ponds, Church of St. Paraskeva Pyatnitsa, Church of the Presentation of the Mother of God etc. Free time for taking pictures.

2pm - Visit to the Toy Museum.

2:30pm - Lunch in "Skazka" restaurant.

3:20pm - Departure for Moscow.

5pm - Arrival to the hotel.  

A 75 – kilometer (46 – mile) ride north of Moscow leads to Sergiev Posad, the most popular town on the Golden Ring route. As soon as the road leaves Moscow, it winds back in time through dense forests of spruce and birch, past old wooden dachas, country homes and farms, and eventually opens onto a magical view upon which fairy tales are based.

In the early 14th century two brothers, Stefan and Varfolomei (Bartholomew), built a small wooden church and monastic retreat in the forests of Radonezh (lands inherited from their father, a pious Rostov boyar). Varfolomei took his monastic vows as Sergius and founded his own monastery in 1345; St. Sergius would one day be named the patron saint of all Russia. Sergius and his pupils went on to establish 50 other monasteries across northeastern Russia that also acted as educational centers and regional strongholds during the Mongol occupations. Seventy of St Sergius; disciples attained sainthood.

In 1380, Grand Prince Dmitri Donskoi and his armies were blessed before battle by Sergius Radonezhsky. Outnumbered four to one, they defeated Khan Mamai`s hordes – the first major Mongol defeat in over a century. At the monastery, one of St. Sergius’ pupils, the famous iconist Andrei Rublyov, painted the Old Testament Trinity (now in Moscow’s Tretyakov Gallery) to commemorate this famous battle at Kulikovo on the Don. After the victory, Moscow princes and rich boyars contributed heavily to the establishment of the Troitse – Sergiyev Lavra (Trinity Monastery of St. Sergius) until it became not only the wealthiest in all Russia, but also the most revered pilgrimage shrine in Moscovy.

The thick kremlin walls were built around the monastery in 1540 during the reign of Ivan the Terrible to protect it from attack. A half – century later, the Lavra (monastery) withstood a 16 – month siege by Polish forces; it was protected by over 3,000 monks. The monastery complex was such an important center for the Russian people that its fall would have meant the end of Rus. The monastery remained an important fortress that defended Moscow well into the 17th century.

Eleven octagonal towers were built into the walls as key defense points. The most famous, the northeast tower, is knows as the Utichya (Duck) Tower; the duck atop its spire symbolizes Peter the Great`s hunting expeditions in Sergiev Posad. (He also enjoyed taking shots at the ducks swimming in the pond below). The place also played an important cultural role; the manuscript – writing and color miniature painting sections date back to the 15th century.

After his death, Sergius was canonized; he is buried in the Holy Trinity Cathedral on the monastery grounds. In 1992, the Orthodox Church celebrated the 600th anniversary of St. Sergius` passing. Each year special church processions are held, especially during of St. Sergius and Holy Trinity Days, New Year’s and Easter holidays. Today the Trinity – Sergius Monastery is the largest lavra run by the Orthodox Church, with over 100 monks. The monastery remains a place of devoted pilgrimage, and believers from all over the country continue to pay homage to “the saint and guardian of the Russia land”.

In 1930, the town’s name of Sergiev Posad (Settlement of Sergius) was changed to Zagorsk, after the revolutionary Vladimir Zagorsk. The monastery was closed down and converted into a State museum by Lenin in 1920 and during the Stalinist era it lost of its wealth and power. The town officially reverted back to its original name of Sergiev Posad in 1990, when the monastery was also returned to the Orthodox Church. Sergiev Posad has a population of over 100,000, but receives nearly a million visitors a year.

The art of carving wooden toys has long been a tradition here; the first toys were made and distributed by St. Sergius to the children of the town. Many painters, sculptors and folk artists trace their heritage to the 17th century, when the first toy and craft workshops were set up in the town. The shop to the left as you pass through the main gates sells many locally made wooden toys.

The parking square, near the main gates of the monastery complex, looks out over many ancient settlements that dot the landscape and the large kremlin citadel that houses priceless relics of old Russian architecture. Enter the main gates as the eastern entrance; paintings of the Holy Pilgrims depict the life of Sergius Radonezhsky, the 14th century monk who established the Trinity Monastery of St. Sergius. The small Church of St. John the Baptist, built in 1693 by the wealthy and princely Stroganov family, stands over the main or Holy Uspensky gates. It now functions as a confessional for Orthodox pilgrims.

The first large structure that catches the eye is the monastery’s main Assumption (Uspensky) Cathedral. This blue and gold – starred, five – domed church with elegant sloping zakomara archways was consecrated in 1585 to commemorate Ivan the Terrible`s defeat of the Mongols in the Asian territory of Astrahan. Yaroslavl artists, whose names are inscribed on the west wall, painted the interior frescoes in 1684. The iconostasis contains the Last Supper, a painting by the 17th century master icon – artist Simon Ushakov. The burial chambers of the Godunov family (Boris Godunov was czar from 1598 to 1605) are located in the northwestern corner. Its design resembles the Kremlin’s Uspensky Cathedral. By the south wall is the Sergius Church (1686 – 92). The first oak coffin of St. Sergius is preserved here. Under the cathedral is the Orthodox Church crypt where patriarchs Alexis I (1970) and Pimen (1990) are buried. Many of these churches are open for worship and conduct services throughout the day. Respectfully dressed visitors are welcome.

The brightly pained Chapel – over – the – Well, located outside by the cathedral’s west wall, was built in Naryshkin, cube – shaped, octagonal – style at the end of the 17th century. Legend has it that when St. Sergius touched a stick to the earth here, a well miraculously appeared, and a blind monk was the first to be healed by the holy water. Near the riverbank stands the Sergius Well Chapel. It was customary for small chapels to be built over sacred springs; today, pilgrims still bring bottles to fill with holy water.

Directly beyond the cathedral, standing in the complex centre, is the five – tiered turquoise and white baroque Bell Tower (88 meters / 288 feet high), designed by Prince Ukhtomsky (1740 – 70) and Rastrelli. Topped with a gilded dome in the form of a crown, it once held 40 bells; the largest weighed 65 tons. The chiming clock of the tower dates back to 1905.

Head directly left of the cathedral to the southern end of the complex. A stroll in this direction to the Refectory may lead past long – bearded monks dressed in the traditional black robes and klobuki tall hats. The Refectory, rebuilt in 1686, is painted in colorful checkerboard patterns of red, blue, green and yellow. It has a large open gallery with 19th – century paintings and wide staircases, and is decorated with carved columns and gables.

The small chapel at the end of the hall has a carved iconostasis by the altar and a beautiful red jasper inland floor. Another quaint church, standing next to the Refectory, is the Church of St. Micah. In 1379, Sergius’ cell attendant, Micah, witnessed the appearance of the Blessed Mary promising prosperity for the monastery. In 1734, this church was built to hold the relics of St. Micah. In 1379, St. Sergius’ cell attendant, Micah, witnessed the appearance of the Blessed Mary promising prosperity for the monastery. In 1734, this church was built to hold the relics of the St. Micah.

Behind the Refectory, in the southwestern corner, is the oldest building in the monastery, the one – domed Trinity Cathedral, which the Abbot Nikon erected over the site of the original Church of St. Sergius in 1422 (the year Sergius was canonized). Pilgrims still visit the remains of St. Sergius of Radonezh, which lie in a silver sarcophagus donated by Ivan the Terrible. An embroidered portrait of St. Sergius that covered his coffin is now preserved in the History and Art Museum, a short walk away. In 1425, Andrei Rublyov and Daniil Chorny painted the icons on the cathedral’s iconostas, which include

a copy of Rublyov’s Holy Testament Trinity (the original is now in Moscow’s Tretyakov Gallery). The cathedral contains 42 works by Rublyov and is joined by the smaller Church of St. Nikon (1548), Sergius’ first successor. Behind the Cathedral is the Sacristy, now a small museum that exhibits early Russian applied art (14th – 17th centuries), and includes collections of metalwork, jewelry, icon covers and exquisite embroideries or “needle paintings”.

Across from the cathedral is the slender Church of the Holy Spirit with a tall bell tower under its dome. It was built in 1476 by Pskov stonemasons. Prominent Russian saints are buried here: St. Maxim the Greek (1556), a translator of hurch books; St. Innocenti of Moscow (1879), a missionary; and Church metropolitans Platon (1812) and Philaret (1867).

Behind this church in the northwest corner stands the Trinity – Sergius Monastery, one of the most important monuments of medieval Russia. The Metropolitan’s House, vestry and adjoining monastery buildings now house the Art Museum and Treasury (Old Russian Applied Art Museum). These museums, which display gifts in the order presented to the monastery, contain one of Russia’s richest collections of early religious art. The exhibits include icons from the 14th to 19th centuries, and portraits, chalices, china, costumes, crowns, furniture, latticework and handicrafts from the 14th to 20th centuries. The art museum also has the original 15th – century gates from the iconostasis of the cathedral. In front of the museum is the Church of Our Lady of Smolensk (1745 – 53) with a blue baroque – style rotunda. In 1730, a pious psalm reader who suffered from paralysis was allegedly healed after praying to the Icon of the Mother of Smolenskaya. The building of the church honored this miracle. The monastery also severed as the town’s hospital and school. Next to the museum is the redbrick and yellow – and – white sandstone hospital building with the adjoining all – white tent – roofed Church of Saints Zosimus and Savvaty (1635). Behind the church, you can climb up the Kalichya Tower for a splendid view of the complex and town (it is usually open in summer months).

In the northeastern corner, behind the Duck Tower, is the colorfully painted and tiled Chertogi Palace, built at the end of the 17th century for Czar Alexei, often came to Sergiev Posad with an entourage of over 500 people. One of the ceilings in the palace is covered with paintings that honor his son’s (Peter the Great) victories in battle. It now houses the Moscow Theological Academy and Seminary. The seminary, founded in 1742, and the academy, founded in 1812, now have over 1,000 students. In 1744, the monastery was awarded the title of Lavra, the country’s highest accolade given to a teaching monastery.

Exiting through the main gate, turn right and walk toward the Kelarskiye Ponds, situated beyond the southeastern Pyatnitskaya Tower. There you may find artists sketching and people strolling among the old garden walls. Two churches built in 1547 stand outside the walls – the Church of St. Paraskeva Pyatnitsa and the Church of the Presentation of the Mother of God, nearest the pond.

The craft of wood carving remains alive in Sergiev Posad. The famous matryoshka, the nest of carved dolls, has its origins here. First appearing on Russia in the 1890s, the matryona doll was later called by its diminutive form, matryoshka, representing peasant girls. The dolls were carved from wood and painted in traditional Russian dress, with sarafan jumpers, embroidered blouses and kokoshniki headdresses. Up to 24 smaller dolls could be nested within the largest, including Russian lads or fairy – tale figures. The doll first attained popularity at the 1900 World Exposition in Paris.

Today, there are even Putin matryoshki (containing past leaders from Yeltsin down to Nicholas II) as well as dolls representing other foreign leaders. In 2000, a Matryoshka Museum (marking the centenary of the doll) opened in Moscow, in the Folk Art Museum near the Arbat. Its largest doll stands doll stands one – meter high and houses 50 smaller ones inside. Another popular Russian folk art – Zhostovo trays – celebrated its 175th anniversary in 2001. Artists paint designs on metal trays, which are then coated with several coats of lacquer.

The history of toys and folk art can be viewed in the large red – brick Toy Museum. There are displays of over 30,000 toys dating back to Bronze Age. A special souvenir section sells carved wooden dolls, boxes, trays and jewelry. Open 10 am – 5 pm, closed Mondays and Tuesdays.